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West Killiak 5.8

I somehow talked Eric into trying West Killiak with me.  We had been up there before without success (and this would make it my third attempt!).  Luckily, it is a gorgeous place to spend a lot of time.  Unfortunately, there was a lot of late snow this year and the climb took on a slog-like persona.  Lots of post-holing.  Some body holing.  And a slope of scree that is worthy of a good Chugach peak.  It made the small icy crux seem like a faint detail of the whole experience.  The good thing about going out with Eric is that he is one of the fittest people on the planet, can climb ice (and lower me a rope!), and always seems to have a joke, a smile, or some line to pull you out of a slog-induced funk.

Good times on Killiak.

Much thanks to Adrienne and Julie who had a fire and camp waiting for us at Heritage Falls when we got back (a bit late for their comfort level ... sorry).

The day is also chronicled on Eric's blog.

 

 

We met a group of skiers and climbers heading in to Polar Bear. This included Eric the Viking, Kathy, and Lisa. Viking had a rough river crossing.

Viking drying out.

We came to find out that Lisa and her partner summited and Kathy and Eric skied the thin bit of snow left after the massive slide

Let the slog-fest begin.

Eric and Eagle Peak

Icicle Creek. And snow. Oof.

After body holing up the creek we got on some good snow. It was pretty short lived, though.

Looking up at Icicle Peak

This is how we spent most of the day.

A thousand feet or so of scree.

The clouds moved in boscuring the peak.

Heading across the high bench into the main gully system

Up into the clouds

This is what turned Tony, August and I around two years ago. Eric climbed it deftly and then sent a rope down for me.

Eric on the crux

Making it look easy

Which way through the clouds?

Eric on top!

The summit!

On the way down through the rocks.

Eric and Yukla

Yukla

Rapping the ice section

We got to post hole down, too! Lucky us!

Eagle Peak in the evening light and clouds

Heading down through Icicle Creek - post holing and bushwacking together

Back to camp at 10:30pm. Adrienne and Julie were a bit worried but did not beat us up too much.